Thursday, December 17, 2015

First time, beginners DIY guide Ebb and Flow Table setup - Part 3 (Finishing Touches)

- Once you have finished those steps, now you need to decide how far apart you want your net cups. They need to be far enough apart that if you are growing lettuce for example, it has enough width to allow another plant to sit beside it.
- Now you are going to make your marks on the board and begin drilling your holes:

- Special note, just make sure that the hole you create, your net cups fit inside snug.
- Once you have completed this task, you are ready to go.
- Once you have seedlings that are ready to be transplanted over to your new system (around 1-2+ weeks after they sprout) you can place you rockwool cubes into the net cups with the growstones.

- You will want to hand water these plants 2-3 times a day with water from your reservoir until their roots can reach the water during the flood.

- As your plants sprout, and you begin to use this system, make sure that you are covering all holes  you are not using so you do not get mold growth.


This is right after I transplanted my first six plants into the setup. 3 Basil plants, and 3 lettuce plants. (Cinnamon Basil, Thai Basil, Lemon Basil, ButterCrunch lettuce, Romain Lettuce, and Leaf Lettuce)



First time, beginners DIY guide Ebb and Flow Table setup - Part 2 (Prep Work)

Now that you have all of the supplies your next steps are to get started on your new project!

- First you may want to soak your seeds for 24-48 hours in water, or a mixture of H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide)
- While those are soaking you can start drilling holes in your tote. Make sure that you use the whole saw size that is the same size as the ebb and flow fittings. You are going to place two holes in the top of that tote. I placed mine towards the middle. The Mason Mixing tub had a bit of a bow in the center of it, which is fine because that is where the lowest point is located. That means water will flow towards that area when it is draining.
- Remember that the lower ebb and flow fitting is what the pump hooks up to. The taller one is the drain.
- Here is a picture of the Mason Mixing tub on top of my reservoir:

- Once you have those holes drilled in the top of the tote, now you can line up the mixing tub on top of it, and drill those holes.( I took the lid off of the tote, lined up the holes, then drilled them to make sure everything lined up the way I wanted them to line up.
- Next, you will need to put the fittings in. I placed them around the mixing tub. They are free hanging into the tote.

- Here is another picture of the fittings on, and inside of tub:

- After that you can hook up your pump to the pipe, hook that pipe up to the small ebb and flow fitting.
- Next, you will want to fill up your reservoir. This is just for a test run. Make sure you have at least 25 gallons in your reservoir. Turn on your pump, and set a stop watch. Wait for it to get to around 18-19 gallons full, then stop your stop watch. How long did it take to fill up your reservoir? It takes around 8 minutes for mine to fill. Now you can set your timer to that time limit of "on" for 8 minutes.
- I let it flood the table three times a day. You can do two, or more than three if you would like, but I prefer 3 times a day.

- Setup your light, and your hangers. Adjust your light to the correct  height (can be as close as around 10-16 inches above the plants).
- Start soaking your rockwool, and growstones.
- Soak the growstones 48 hours in advanced. I soaked my initially in regular tap water in a bucket for 24 hours. Dumped that water, then added pH balanced water, plus 1/4 strength nutrients to the water. Let them soak for another 24 hours.
  - The first soak helps remove any dust.
  - The second soak preps the growstones for use.
- The rockwool can be soaked 24 hours prior to being used in pH balanced, 1/4 nutrient strength water.

Part 1
Part 3

First time, beginners DIY guide Ebb and Flow Table setup - Part 1 (Item list)

Here is a walk through that I did not have when I first started looking into Hydroponics. A complete, beginning to end documentation of the first Ebb and Flow table I built. It is a rough cost estimate as I waited for a lot of the items to go on sale prior to buying them. The prices below were just what the prices were when I looked them up during the creation of this post. 

This series is being created because I remember when I wanted to get into Hydroponics. I did lots, and lots of research into what I wanted, and needed. I thought that I had the list, and boom I started to buy items off of my list. It did not completely fit together correctly. I ran into issues, after issues. I wanted to make a guide to list out ALL of the items needed to not only get into hydroponics, but also build your first setup. 

Here is a simple way to create an ebb and flow (flood and drain)table. It is quick, easy, and cheap.
I used very specific items due to durability, and cost. You can choose other options, but it is up to you of course. 

Also location pending since you may not have the same stores near you.


1.) Hdx 27 gallon storage tote ($11.97) - Home Depot (Reservoir)
2.) Mason mixing tub 3x2 21 gallon ($12.98) - Home Depot (Flood table)
3.) 400 gph pump ($22.92) - Amazon
4.) Rockwool  ($10.33) - Amazon 
5.) Foam topper($5.99 a piece x 2) - I used something similar to this but it was 2ft x 2ft and I snagged two of them - Home Depot (Goes on top of the Flood table)
6.) 100 net cups 2 inch ($11.95) - Amazon
7.) Growstones ($29.99) - local hydro store, or Amazon 
8.) Bontanicaire ebb and flow fittings ($8.95) - Amazon
9.) Pipe for the pump ($0.10 per foot) - Local Hydro Store
10.) Timers (13.99)x2 - Amazon
11.) Grow light ($110.00) - Amazon
12.) Nutrients ($37.99) - Amazon
13.) pH up/down ($15.59)- Amazon
14.) TDS meter ($13.99) - Amazon
15.) Power Drill
16.) Whole saw kit (something like this Amazon)
17.) Seeds (Price depends on what you are growing)

Total: (Minus the Seeds, Power Drill, and Whole saw kit) = $327.62 

There is ways to go cheaper:
- Make your own light. DIY CFL setups can be very cheap. DIY LEDs could be a little cheaper.
- Use something other than Growstones. You could any inert material.(The sky is the limit)
- Only use 1 timer (this means you HAVE to remember to turn on your light, and shut it off.)
- Only buy only the "grow" nutrient instead of the three pack (only if you are growing vegetative items that do not bloom such as lettuce, basil, etc.) 
- Skip the TDS meter for now. You can go by how much they describe to put in the water, but these are handy if you start having any issues in your setup, what your water's base is, and what it is after adding your nutrients. It helps you solve too issues of too little nutrient, or issues if your nutrients are too high.
- Skip rockwool, if you have another alternative that is inert and retains water. 

**Do note, by changing these variables, you are going to affect the outcome, in which could be negative, or positive. 

There is cheaper ways to go about Hydroponics, and if you have the option of a local hydroponic store, they usually have nutrients, timers, pumps, airstones, etc cheaper than Amazon. 

If you are already growing hydroponically, or have some of these supplies like I did then it is far cheaper to build an Ebb and Flow table: 

1.) Hdx 27 gallon storage tote ($11.97) - Home Depot (Reservoir)
2.) Mason mixing tub 3x2 21 gallon ($12.98) - Home Depot (Flood table)
3.) 400 gph pump ($22.92) - Amazon
4.) Bontanicaire ebb and flow fittings ($8.95) - Amazon 
5.) Timer (13.99) - Amazon
6.) Pipe for the pump ($0.10 per foot (~$1) - Local Hydro Store
7.) Foam topper($5.99 a piece x 2) - I used something similar to this but it was 2ft x 2ft and I snagged two of them - Home Depot (Goes on top of the Flood table)

Total: $83.79

Friday, June 19, 2015

High Pressure versus Low Pressure Aeroponics

High Pressure versus Low Pressure Aeroponics

First off, let's take a quick peek at the definitions of these two difference styles:

High Pressure Aeroponics (HPA) is defined as a form of Hydroponics in which the roots are suspended in a chamber with nozzles that delivers nutrients through a mist to the roots between 5-80 micrometers. Most argue that the range is smaller (20-50 micrometers). This mist is usually derived from some form of pump (typically a diaphragm pump such as a reverse osmosis pump). This type of system usually has a PSI of 80-150PSI to attain the droplet size. Also, it uses specialized misting heads to attain the correct mist droplet size. Research from NASA shows that at the 20-50 micron size, the roots can grab the water/nutrient solution right out of the air and instantly absorb them without any wasted energy.

Low Pressure Aeroponics (LPA), aka soakponics is defined as a form of Hydroponics in which the root zone is suspended in a chamber with nozzles which delivers nutrients through a spray. The droplet size is not exact. These systems typically use a plastic spray nozzle, and a typical fountain pump to get their spray out of the nozzles.

High Pressure Advantages:
  • Superior crop
  • Of all current methods, this grows plants upwards of 20% faster
  • Uses the least amount of water, of any system
  • Uses least amount of nutrients of any system
High Pressure Disadvantages: 
  • If issues arise in the system (power outage) you lose your plants in minutes
  • Most finicky form of Hydroponics
  • Super expensive
  • Clogged sprayers

High Pressure Hydroponics is great for high dollar cash crops, or those seeking the highest quality crop in smaller scale environments / hobbyist


Low Pressure Aeroponics Advantages:
  • Simple, easy to DIY
  • Grows plants faster than other forms of Hydroponics.
  • Cheap to build

Low Pressure Aeroponics Disadvantage:

  • If issues arise in the system (power outage) you lose your plants in hours
  • Clogged sprayers


There are not very many disadvantages to LPA as you can see above. These systems are not the best for larger plants, but can be used for such. The sprayers can get clogged from the plants roots. These are mainly used for cloning. They do a fantastic job at cloning plants. 


Thursday, June 18, 2015

Soil / Hydroponics trade-offs

Keep in mind, soil to hydroponics has it's trade offs. What exactly do I mean by this? Well here are some examples: 
  • Going from soil to hydroponics you are trading:
    • Soil born illnesses for water born illnesses 
      • Now you need RO (Reverse Osmosis) or Distilled water to eliminate that issue. 
      • It is cheaper to make your own, but more expensive up front.  
    • Introduction of pests from buying soil, versus introducing pests because they are on you.
      • When buy new soil to switch out your old soil, you can introduce pests via that soil you are placing in your environment. You can also introduce pests bringing outside plants inside, and by you, yourself. You can carry pests inside which will then eat your plants. 
      • With Hydroponics you can only introduce pests from bringing outside plants in, and you, yourself. 
    • In soil plants can die slowly if not properly addressed for pH, and nutrient levels. It is much more forgiving.
      • Hydroponics is not as forgiving. Depending on your setup, you could have days, hours, or minutes to resolve your issues with nutrients, pH,etc. Your plants can die must faster.
    • Soil grown plants take longer to grow overall. 
      • You are reducing the time (again depending on method) substantially. Lots of studies show getting in bigger, better yields in shorter amounts of time. You can also gain additional harvests per year if you have your setup configured correctly. 
    •  Soil grown plants like to take up way more space for their roots. Their roots have to reach, and stretch for nutrients/water/oxygen. 
      • Hydroponics gains a large advantage here. They can be grown in smaller containers, the roots do not have to reach/stretch to get the nutrients//water/oxygen levels they want. They can be smaller, take up less room, etc. 
    • Soil is usually a run to waste setup. You get new water, water your plants, then get new water, etc. Each watering, the plant is only getting a percentage of the water supplied. 
      • Hydroponics, you can recirculate the water, and utilize it, or still do run to waste. You can also take the run to waste/old reservoirs, and run it back through a RO system. You can re-utilize your water, over and over again. 
    • Many options from cheap, to very expensive for different types/mixtures of soil. 
      • Same goes for Hydroponics. Depending on the type of Hydroponics you choose, you can be completely medium-less, to growing in coco coir, and perilite. These range from very expensive, to very cheap. It just depends on your knowledge of the qualities you want in your growing medium, and how thrifty you are. 
    • In soil you mostly do not have to worry about hardware/equipment failure. 
      • With Hydroponics, your plants survive based upon your water/feeding schedules, your air pumps, etc. If you have an equipment failure, you better be able to fix it quickly. 

Friday, January 23, 2015

Why Chose Hydroponics Over Dirt.

So you might ask yourself, why would I ever stray away from the conventional, proven technique of growing plants.

Well, we figured we would continue from  an older post, and go more in depth this time from the older post found here. That blog was just a general overview of Hydroponics.

Why would you want to go the way of what seems to be a very complex way of growing plants?

Well here are some of the benefits to growing Hydroponically:

  • Just as enjoyable as traditional gardening is, and can become so much more satisfying. 
  • You will no longer have to take time to pull out weeds, use weed killers, pesticides, etc. 
  • No tilling dirt, plowing dirt, pouring manure, and sometimes no animals to keep out. 
  • You are controlling even more of the process, how much oxygen hits the roots, how much nutrients the plant will receive, 
  • No more soil born illnesses, 
  • You can recirculate your water, which means you are conserving 90-98% more water over traditional gardening. 
  • Usually you can get more per harvest compared with soil, but you get yields 20%+ faster than soil. Your plant will use it's energy towards growing above the roots in a Hydroponics setup since it does not have to waste energy making a giant root structure to get the adequate amount of nutrition. 
  • You can automate you setup as much as you would like. You can place an arduino controller for PH testing / EC / and TDS. These three things test water PH levels, water quality, and nutrient levels to make sure that you are in the correct ranges. You could then even setup email alerts, or text message alerts for when they hit certain levels. This is only the tip of the iceberg of automation. 
  • You can combine your traditional methods of pruning to get an even larger yield. 
  • Building your own system, automating it, and getting more crops out of less space is extremely gratifying. 
  • Great project for adults, and kids. You will both learn a large amount of information. Even if it does not work out, you may learn how to become better at growing in soil from this knowledge. 
  • Every time you buy soil, whether it be cheap soil, or super expensive soil you are potentially introducing new pests, mites, etc into your environment. 

You will want to remember, the above list seems like it makes perfect sense, and lets go get started on your Hydroponic garden right now! Let's take into account some of the disadvantages: 
  • Cost, upfront it will be much larger. You will have to purchase equipment. Some equipment you can scrounge, or barter/bargain for such as buckets. Other equipment you will more than likely have to buy, such as a water pump. 
  • When your system goes south, your plants go south with it, super fast. Depending on your system you may have hours, or minutes to fix your issues and get your setup back up and running. Otherwise, your crops will be gone in that time frame. 
  • Your crops can be tasteless, and bland, if you do not give them the proper nutrition. If you skimp on the nutrients, your plants will be lacking. Do remember that if you over do it though, your plants roots may get "burnt" by the nutrients. 
  • You may end up putting in more time for gardening. You will more than likely put in more time upfront at least. But on the counter, we did find it more enjoyable, and you learn so much more than with dirt. 

Friday, January 2, 2015

Dutch Buckets

http://trudat.info/2014/02/yield-tons-of-tomatoes-grow-bags-or-dutch-buckets/

I wanted to add a link to this website. It is very informative. He gives great ideas, and how to's on dutch bucket systems. This is one of the cheapest, and effective systems I have come across so far!

Check it out!

Thanks!